Knitting

Knitted jumpers

Hello all! My first knitting post of the year is a first in other ways. Today I’m showing off my first two knitted jumpers. Up until last year, I’ve steered clear of “fitted” knitting, mainly through a fear of getting the gauge wrong and spending lots of time of something that doesn’t end up going. I tend to stick to more flexible items like shawls, hats and socks. Even though hats and socks are fitted, they take much less time to make which means there’s less investment if they go wrong!

Knitting for children is a great way to learn techniques. I learnt to knit socks by starting with baby socks. The imminent arrival of another nibling coincided with my discovery of the free Flax Sweater pattern by Tin Can Knits. With new knitting, I find the smaller size of children’s clothing is far less daunting than something in my size. Additionally, gauge is less important because as long as I aim for “baby size”, I know it will fit at some point.

Knit Knit Knit

Tin Can Knits have a series of free patterns to help tempt people into knitting. The Flax has a cousin – the Flax light – for 4ply weight yarn for those of you who want a lighter sweater….and more stitches! I chose the original pattern which requires worsted weight yarn.

The beauty of this pattern is that it’s largely just knit stitches, with some purl detail on the sleeves. I didn’t come up against anything I hadn’t already done before – the ‘tricky bits’ were working in the round (socks) and the sleeves (essentially big thumbs from fingerless mitts). As the sweater is knit in the round, there’s no sewing together at the end – a huge bonus in my book.

Sleeve detail

I had the handy tutorial by Tin Can Knits on my phone and consulted it at each step. This tutorial was invaluable as it goes into the construction details and helped me understand why I was doing something, and visualise how it would turn out. I relied less on it for my jumper, having made Nibling’s so recently.

One particular thing that I enjoyed about the process was how the pattern is partitioned so nicely. As a “completer finisher”, it was nice to be able to tick off elements that were done

  • neckband – done
  • yoke – done
  • body – done
  • sleeve 1 – done
  • sleeve 2 – I’ve made a jumper!

I knit Nibling’s jumper in about a month, which is more quickly than I anticipated. However, I started it on holiday when I had more time, and did a lot of ‘stress-knitting’ during some tense Wimbledon matches. (Wimbledon really dates when I made it!)

My jumper took a lot longer, although progress was helped by a September holiday, when I finished the bodice. Into the autumn months, the unfinished jumper sat next to our sofa awaiting some attention for weeks.

Looking through my photos whilst writing this blog reminded me of how portable knitting can be. On the sofa, on the beach, in the garden, whilst travelling…I’m rarely far from some yarn and needles.

As I have talked about in the past, lifelines came in handy. I left the sleeve ones in place until I had finished the cuffs. Having that back up is a huge confidence booster to keep going.

Both jumpers have slight errors in them on the sleeves where I got my knit and purl rows mixed up. The pattern simplicity lulled me into a false sense of security. I must have been distracted by the TV a few times because the knit/purl rows are off once or twice. I don’t think it’s noticeable though so I didn’t rip back.

The jumper is symmetrical so to distinguish between front and back, I added a label on each to help.

Sizing and yarn

For Nibling’s Flax Sweater, I chose to knit size 6-12mths, which is the second size. For myself, I knit ML but shortened the sleeves and bodice where the pattern says to knit for “x inches” because I have a short torso and arms.

For Nibling, I used some Sidar Supersoft Aran Rainbow Drops in the ‘Pick n Mix’ colourway, which is predominantly white with flecks of colour peppered throughout. The pattern recommended 2 balls, I bought 3 to be safe but only used 1 in the end. I don’t knit with a lot of acrylic yarn because I find it a bit sweaty when directly on my skin. For Nibling, I reasoned that polyester would wash better (what new parents have the time to hand wash woollens?!) and the jumper is unlikely to be directly next to her skin.

My yarn is a gloriously deep teal colourway called Caribbean. It’s Cloudborn Superwash Merino Worsted Twist which is very squishable and soft. Again, I over-ordered, buying 7 skeins and using 3-4. I’m not exactly sure how many I used because I had some partial skeins left at the end due to starting a new one for each sleeve to avoid having to weave ends etc!

Fitting thoughts

I really like the fit of mine. It’s looser than on the model, which is what I wanted. Before blocking, I thought the sleeves are 1-2″ shorter than I would like which but post-blocking they’re fine. The magic of blocking! The bodice length works well for me so I’m happy that I got that right.

What will become of the leftover yarn? Well, I’ve already started some legwarmers for ballet…! Thanks for reading :o)

Make Nine 2022 · Sewing

Sierra pullover

Hello! Christmas brought a request from Mr Mouse for a new jumper. The request was largely prompted by an innocent, but scathing, question from a Nibling asking why he only has one jumper! In fairness, he mainly wears two jumpers but they’re both the same pattern in different colours. As they’re so well worn, adding a third into the chest of drawers felt like a sensible move to prolong their life.

The two Sierra pullovers I’ve previously made were from fleece. Both are the colour-blocked version with no side pockets. I was quite quickly reminded that putting zips into thick fabric is not my favourite task, nor is it particularly easy!

Jumper 2

For his 3rd version, I suggested I make one from fleece-back sweatshirting, which is a bit smarter but still nice and warm. I bought some in Old Mint and Petrol from Minerva – it’s really cosy and seems to be washing well.

Fitting

Mr Mouse is tall and lean so shop-bought clothes are often baggy in order to get enough length in the bodice and/or sleeves. One of the joys of having a wife who sews is warm wrists.

I checked that he was happy with the fit of his existing Sierras. The green/grey one above was the second I made, where I added a bit more length to the sleeves than the first one. I had to put a very small hem on the sleeves of v1 because we realised he needed even more length than I had added to the pattern.

For this version, I kept the measurements from the second jumper which have these adjustments on the original pattern:

  • +4.5″ to all sleeve pieces
  • +3.5″ to main bodice pieces
  • Sleeve hem 1.5″ (pattern advises 1″)
  • Bodice hem 2.5″ (pattern advises 1″)
  • I deepened the hems because he’s tall, the deeper hems give a better proportion

The zip of doom

The zip nearly ended this jumper’s life before it began. It was a pain in the derriere to put in.

I deviated from the instructions slightly as I didn’t understand them and, having read them several times, I decided to improvise. I spent ages looking at the existing versions that I made but it’s been a few years since I made one so that didn’t help. I’ve just re-read the instructions to see if a fresh look helped but I’m still none the wiser.

However, my inability to follow instructions wasn’t the problem. Getting the zip in was the issue. Sewing through two layers of sweatshirting whilst trying to get two points (upper and lower collar) to meet up was so tricky. I put the zip in 4 times, hand basting each time.

I realised after the 2nd time that the zip was too short, which definitely wasn’t helping things. I then ordered 5 longer zips in different colours (internet shopping has its downfalls when trying to colour-match) and came back to it a week or so later, with the added pressure of Christmas looming.

The first time I put in the longer zip (3rd time in total), I realised the alignment problem could be resolved by taking a bit off the collar piece. I think the seam allowance had been cut short at the end so one side was higher than the other. So the problem wasn’t necessarily the zip insertion, but carelessness a few steps earlier – so frustrating!

After altering the collar piece, I started “Zip insertion 4: it’s now or never” (catchy film title?). I finally managed to get it in with the bottom and top of the collar lining up…then I celebrated with a gin.

Home straight

From that point, the jumper came together really quickly. I put a Kylie and the Machine label from my advent calendar on the collar as a nice finishing touch.

The intersections where the colour-blocking pieces meet are much more precise on this version, which I’m really pleased about. I did a few seams multiple times to make them neater and the one in the picture still bugs me slightly.

I also added two lines of top-stitching on the hems of the sleeves and bodice for more of a “shop bought” feel.

Mr Mouse doesn’t ask for many clothes but the few things I’ve made him (3 Sierra pullovers) are worn in constant rotation, which is a sign of a successful make. Thanks for reading :o)

Look at that zip!
Sewing

Aura dress

Happy new year! Whilst my plans for 2022 are taking shape, I’ve still got a few makes from last year to share.

This is one of those projects that comes under “labour of love” – multiple adjustments, multiple toiles and seemingly endless hand sewing all helped make a dress that I feel really good in.  Introducing, the Aura dress…..!

Pattern

At first glance, you could be fooled into passing over this pattern as “just another wrap dress”.  On closer inspection, this dress has a host of details that make it special.

First up, the voluminous sleeve of recent years is definitely here to stay and I’m a big fan! The fabric I chose has a bit of weight to it so it shows off the volume of the sleeve nicely.

The waist tie is both functional and decorative.  I like the generous width of the tie and the fact that it wraps all the way around to secure at the front.

The scooped back is high enough to wear a bra, and I actually lowered mine slightly, which I’ll cover when I talk about adjustments.

Fabric spotlight

Viscose linen is back in my life!! My in-laws gave me a voucher for Lamazi for my birthday and I put it towards the teal fabric for this dress. I also bought some Atelier Jupe fabric that I made a blouse from and had enough remnants to cut the facings for my Aura.

I won’t subject you to a repeat of my love for viscose linen, but if you would like a refresh, head here.

If in doubt, re-toile

I find wrap dresses and tops take a bit of commitment to get a good fit. I have made the Papercut Coppelia cardi twice for ballet classes and the block fit me with minimal adjustments. Even though it’s a jersey pattern, this gave me some confidence that I should manage to fit with a bit of patience and muttering to myself.

Based on my measurements, online research and some holding of pattern pieces against my body, my first toile consisted of the following adjustments:

  • Size 4 bust, grading to 5 at waist and hip
  • 5″ off skirt length (I’m 5’2″)
  • 2″ off sleeve length

This was a good start but the main issue was it fell off my shoulders. Initially I thought it might be an issue with shoulder width but a bit of pinching of fabric made me realise it was the length of the front piece. In hindsight, this might be a short-torso problem but I fixed it an easier way!

These images are fairly terrible because they’re screenshots from videos. I pinned out the excess in the shoulder height which gave me confidence to re-toile.

I treat fitting like a technical/computer/software problem… don’t be tempted to change everything at once. Try one or two fixes, then reassess. That way, if it gets worse I know how I’ve made it worse and can undo that small step. The incremental steps make it easier to keep track of things.

I then adjusted this toile to:

  • Shorten shoulder by 2cm on front and back bodice
  • Match this change on the facings
  • I left the sleeve head and added gathers for a slightly puffed shoulder head

I had read in a number of online reviews that the skirt split was a bit on the daring side. Rather than grade further at the hip to accommodate my thighs, I decided to widen the skirt piece (and facing) so that it came further across my body.

With all this adjusted on my pattern pieces, my second toile adjustments were:

  • Should seams and facing shortened by 2cm (or seam allowance increased by 2cm, depending on how you look at it)
  • Lowered bust dart by 1cm
  • Lowered back by 4cm (and facing)., smoothing curves
  • Widened skirt at bottom by 2″ and graded up to curve where meets belt. Matched facing
  • Took about 1.5cm off bust curve under bust so it sit better

Construction woes

After two (and a half) toiles, I was fairly confident that the dress would come together quite quickly.  No such luck!

Here’s a photo step 1, which is the straight tie…and an example of why I shouldn’t sew when tired.  I even overlocked the seam before realising it wasn’t a straight line!

Sometimes, I can doubt a make until the last minute and this became one of them. Rather than seeing numerous adjustments as a positive that mean a potential great fit, I think I start to talk myself out of a garment. “If it needs this many adjustments, maybe it’s not for me…”.  The real low point was when I walked past the dress on Martha (the mannequin) and all I could see was Voldemort’s robes.

One last tweak

I made one final adjustment before being satisfied with the fit of this dress. When I tried it on, I was disappointed that it was slipping off my shoulder when I moved. I still don’t know how this happened with all the toiles.

I did a very sensible thing and slept on it without panicking. I remembered one of my favourite rtw dresses that had an incredibly low back with a sort of bar to keep it from slipping. With a slither of fabric, I recreated this functional, yet stylish, feature on my Aura which sorted the problem.

Hand cramp!

The instructions suggest machine sewing the back facing and hand-stitching the front facing. After reading a few reviews online, I decided to hand-stitch everything, including them hem! It took me a few nights in front of the telly and a number of exclamations of “argh, hand cramp” but I’m really pleased that I persevered.

The hem was ridiculously wonky after dropping so the inside looks like a hilly landscape but nobody can tell from the outside.

The real seal of approval came from my husband. When I put my finished Aura on, he said “is that the Voldemort dress? It looks much better now” :o)

All dressed up and ready to party