January 2021 saw a flurry of “ostrich sewing” by me whilst the UK was plunged back into lockdown. As well as making some seasonally appropriate makes, I started to dabble in Spring/Summer makes – mainly due to a general desire to be warm!

Grrrrrr
I bought this fantastic Tiger fabric from Guthrie and Ghani with the intention of making it into a dress. However, I hadn’t realised just how narrow 110cm is. It is now my firm belief that there should be some sort of law that makes 145cm the minimum width for fabric.
I wanted a pattern that would really show off the funky pattern and also had a gap in my wardrobe for another By Hand London Jessica skirt, as my first one was perfect for summer weather. An ideal pairing!
For a relatively simple make, this skirt required so much head-scratching on my part! Here’s a list of the challenges I encountered:
- Re-toile of waistband (I wanted to do this to get a better fit)
- “Pleat algebra” (if it wasn’t already a thing, it is now)
- Concern that 3 years of University Maths was wasted time, effort and money as I couldn’t do “pleat algebra”
- Unexpected pattern matching requirement to create a seam-free skirt piece wide enough for gathers (after abandoning pleat idea)
- Not enough fabric for waistband facings
All that aside, I’m really pleased with the end result and learnt a lot along the way.
Adjustments
I cut a size 14 waistband, then increased the seam allowance by 1/8″ either side of both centre panels. This cinched the waistband in to improve the fit and ‘lift’ the skirt closer to my waist.
I shortened the skirt length by 2″, but also used a 4″ hem to make this skirt slightly shorter than my first.
In terms of making the skirt piece, I made it as wide as the fabric allowed whilst also pattern matching. I think I managed to get the skirt piece about as wide as a size 8 on the original pattern. This means the gathers are less pronounced than intended but I’m so pleased with the pattern matching because there is a seam right down the front of the skirt that’s fairly invisible.
I also added patch pockets and a decorative hem stitch, just to be fancy.

Can you see the centre seam? 
Patch pocket matching
Hidden details
For the facings, I didn’t have enough Tiger fabric so I chose to add a touch of the Arts to my skirt. My friend bought me some Royal Opera House swatches a while ago and I’ve been saving them for something special. As an avid theatre goer, the threat to the arts is never far from my mind at the moment so stitching a tiny piece of the ROH into my skirt was a strangely emotive experience.
These two fabrics have a silk/sateen feel, which means they’re really soft against the skin. As was inevitable with this make, I didn’t have enough of one fabric to make the entire waistband facing so I used two. It’s a “design choice” that I’m owning!
I’ve actually been wearing my skirt with tights and boots for a few days, trying out different tops, and I’ve discovered that it’s a good transitional piece – bonus! Thanks for reading :o)


























