Forty and Fabulous

At the beginning of this year, I promised myself that I would embrace my imminent “big birthday” and make a fabulous dress that I could wear as part of the celebrations, and also continue wear.

Unfortunately “THE plague” finally found us the week before my 40th birthday so lots of plans were cancelled and I didn’t get to go to the theatre in this lovely frock.

Six weeks later, we re-booked to see Anything Goes and I got to wear my dress.

After a fair amount of research, I decided to make the Victory Patterns Trina dress. I lusted after the version on the pattern cover a while ago and it was in my wish list on The Fold Line. I loved the wrap style and billowing sleeves. What I didn’t realise was how clever the bodice construction is….but more on that soon.

Fabric focus

I had 4m of this rust and blue viscose from Rainbow Fabrics in my Make Nine 2022 and decided it was a good match. It’s a slightly thicker viscose than others I’ve worked with, almost like a thin crepe. This is good because it meant I didn’t need the suggested lining for the skirt, so less cutting out and significantly less hemming required.

I nearly picked a green and pink spotty satin but I was worried that satin would make it look like a dressing gown, which wasn’t the look I was going for!

Always toile a wrap dress

One of my “sewing rules” is to always toile a wrap dress. With some garments, I get away without a toile – either because I know alterations needed with certain pattern companies, or it’s a loose fit. However wrap dresses (and tops) are top of the list of patterns that I wouldn’t risk.

I mocked up the bodice of my Trina dress and am very glad I did. Here’s why:

• My toile was a size 10. For my final dress, I cut an 8 for the bust and waist, grading to a 10 on the hip
• I shortened the bodice by 1cm
• I took 3″ off the sleeve length
• I also cut the skirt length at the suggested lining length, rather than the full skirt length (I’m 5’2″)

I didn’t actually need to modify the wrap element which was a relief.

Construction

I have two main thoughts about constructing this dress. The first thought is linked to the fabric, which required ALL THE PINS. Usually I prefer to work with wonder clips but this slippery little sucker (Pretty Woman throwback) needed pins. This is mainly because I can’t get as close to a clip with the sewing machine needle before un-clipping. With a pin, I can be practically on top of the pin before whipping it away, ensuring more accuracy.

My second main thought is that the bodice construction is so interesting. I’ve tried to get a photograph but it’s really hard. I’ve come across a few wrap garments where there’s a gap in sewing left to pull the tie through, or a hidden button inside is used. With the Trina dress, the front and back bodice are overlaid at the side, meaning there’s a secret gap to pull the tie out of. Very clever and very hard to describe!

After swanning around the house in a Lemsip haze, I decided to put a modesty snap on the front. With the fabric being quite slippery, I decided it was better to be safe. It would be ok for sitting in the theatre but wouldn’t stay in place during a night of dancing at a wedding.

As a little bonus, here’s the cake my parents got me for my birthday, that I didn’t see in person because I was isolating! My family deconstructed it, ate half and put half in the freezer. When we got together a few weeks later, we reconstructed it and I finally got a piece.

Thanks for reading :o)